Men's Formal Wear – Style, Fit, and Occasion

Tuxedos are the pinnacle of men's style and formal wear and have been since their introduction in 1886. Since then, the tuxedo has been incorporated into many different styles and interpreted through many generations. Today, the tuxedo still represents high society and happy times of celebration. From that one special occasion to fancy parties in trendy towns, tuxedos see a lot of use in today’s fashion scene.

Black Tie? White Tie? What To Wear, When

When receiving an invitation to a party or event, the attire is often specified with just a few words, such as 'black tie' or 'white tie.' Surely, the dress code can’t be that simple? Those words are code for the proper attire and you have to be in the know to make sure you are dressing appropriately. Thankfully, we will decipher that code right here for you.

Black Tie & White Tie

Black Tie is your standard formal attire dress code. Mens formal wear for a Black Tie event includes tuxedos, and women will be wearing long dresses or very dressy evening separates. Sometimes instead of using the term Black Tie, the word Formal will just be used, and usually means the same thing. White Tie, on the other hand, is code for ultra-formal. Men will be wearing full dress including a white tie, vest, and shirt. Women will be wearing long formal gowns. White Tie is the 'top of the top' in formal wear.

Black Tie Optional

Another dress code might be Black Tie Optional, which gives you a little room to substitute a dark suit for a men's tuxedo. Here, women would be wearing evening dresses as well, but have a little more leeway to try something different. If the black tie is not optional, sometimes it can be Creative Black Tie. In this case, you start with the basic black tie attire, but are given plenty of room to modify the outfit to fit current trends.

Semi-Formal

Getting a little more casual, Semi-Formal attire means that men are not required to wear a tuxedo, but should still stick with a dark suit for an evening party, or a lighter suit for a daytime event. Women here have the option of a shorter dress or dressy suit. Sometimes this category is also called 'business formal;' they are typically used interchangeably. Cocktail attire is often similar to this category as well, with men in dark suits and shorter dresses for the ladies. Another synonym would be 'Informal.'

Festive Attire

When the holidays roll around, you might receive an invitation with Festive Attire required. This is basically the same as informal or semi-formal, but the holiday theme should be incorporated. For example, men might wear a red or green tie for Christmas, and a woman might choose a red blouse.

Casual

Finally, casual attire would be your least formal requirement. Be careful, though, as not everyone’s interpretation of 'casual' has the same meaning. Sometimes you might run into a sort of dressy casual which would be a half step up from casual. In this sense, one should look at wearing a nice pair of trousers and a sports coat. Ultimately, if there are no real requirements for dress, then they are strictly talking about casual.

Men's tuxedos and suits have to fit properly for the look to really work. A suit that just hangs off the body or tightly clings around the figure will look worse than casual attire at a black tie event. You definitely don’t want to recycle a suit from a school dance or your wedding. With this in mind, matching body type to tailoring is really the best way to achieve that flawless, classy tuxedo look.

In general, the shirt cuff should ride about an inch beyond the jacket sleeve. Jackets should be loose enough to allow some ventilation but still highlight the body without being baggy. Trousers should be slightly wider to accommodate the upper thighs. When shopping for tuxedos and the selection is lacking, stick with a shawl collar tuxedo; this is the classic tuxedo look that will always be in style.

If your body type is tall and slender to medium build, tuxedos should fit your body well. This doesn’t mean that tailoring isn’t required. In this case, look for a well-made double-breasted jacket with some added padding in the shoulders while having the waist taken in slightly. This compliments the body perfectly by creating a very statuesque and manly figure look.

If you are a tall man, but larger than medium build, or even very muscular, stick with a shawl-collar mens tuxedo. This style has the smooth, thin collar without notched lapels. Look for a single breasted jacket with just one button and make sure the length of the jacket runs down to the tips of your fingers if you are resting your arms at your side. Make sure to choose a tie that is in proportion to your face, as you don’t want a gigantic bow tie nor a thin tie -- both will make your face look out of proportion.

For the shorter guys, the best bet is a single-breasted jacket with the button placed low near the belt line. This will help give you a taller look and stretch out your torso, so to speak. A notched lapel works well for thinner men to help fill out their frame. Huskier men should look to the shawl collar type. Again, make sure you match the tie to the size of your build so that it will give you a symmetrical, proportional look.

Each piece of a tuxedo has some details that separate the styles and fits. For example, the coat comes in three different lapel styles, from notched with a "v" indent, to peak with a "v" indent, which means that it comes up like a mountain peak. Lastly there is the shawl style, which has a rounded lapel. Single-breasted coats button down the middle where double-breasted styles cross over the center to be buttoned. For quality, a wool tuxedo with a high thread count is top end, but a polyester suit is less expensive and works better for men with fabric allergies. Make sure to match the available styles with your body type!

When you are talking about the dress shirt, the most important detail is the fabric used. Buying 100% cotton gives you the highest quality shirt. If you are renting a shirt or trying to save a little money then try looking at a polyester/cotton blend. Last there is a microfiber shirt. This fabric will feel extremely light and soft like silk and is a great buy for comfort during a long event.

Dress trousers are usually a straightforward purchase. You purchase them like any other pants in that you match the pants to your waist size. Make sure you have a satin stripe down the length of the trousers. You will need to get the pants hemmed to fit your leg’s length -- do not try to get away without a proper hemming of dress trousers!

Mens tuxedo vests are a great way to personalize a look. They come in a wide range of colors from the basics to the most fancy-sounding colors. Look to purchase a fullback vest; they are garments that have an actual back to them rather than an open-back vest that just secures with a clasp.

Speaking of personalization, the next piece of the suit that you can really have fun with is the neckwear. There are many styles available, from the classic bow tie, to the western, or cowboy, bow tie with its distinctive "T" shape. For a more traditional look, consider the Windsor style. A button cover can also take the place of a tie and is simply a small piece of jewelry to place over the top button of the shirt. Colors, styles, prints, and patterns are abounding in neckwear options, so you can really match the tie to the man and the occasion.

Finally, accessories can complete a look or even bump a suit up or down in terms of how formal or casual it may be. The best way to keep a tuxedo looking high class is with the addition of studs and cufflinks; forgoing cufflinks will definitely downgrade the entire look. It is also best to match your date’s jewelry as well, pairing gold with gold or silver with silver, or else match to the setting of your date’s jewelry if she is wearing pearls. Suspenders are an option in the place of a belt and are definitely a good choice if that is your style.

In the end, achieving the best look for men's formal wear is done in three parts: follow the dress code; match the style and tailoring to the body type; and pay attention to the suit piece details and accessories to polish the final look. There is still plenty of room within this framework to express yourself through tie choices, accessories, colors, patterns, prints, or even matching your date’s attire to your own. Don’t feel constrained by dress codes and etiquette. Rather, follow those guidelines and use them to provide the framework for your own unique look.